Here is a link to our Scalextric Digital Product Pages!
About Scalextric Sport Digital
The Scalextric Sport Digital system brings a whole new dimension to Scalextric racing by allowing up to 6 digital slot cars to race on the same lane. Special track pieces allow drivers to switch lanes and overtake at the press of a button on the new Sport Digital hand throttles. Sport Digital also offers users 7 different race modes, hand throttles with adjustable settings and will be available in a ready to race set. Sport Digital is compatible with existing Scalextric track and special micro chip-fitted digital slot cars are available along with chips for retro-fitting recent Scalextric slot cars. Scalextric says that you can race any of their digital cars on Scalextric analog track as well as other brands.
Some Key Facts to Keep in Mind:
~The Digital Track Set uses existing Scalextric Sport track, plus Scalextric Classic track can also be used provided the electrical connections between track sections are in good condition.
~A total of seven different racing modes are available through the new digital powerbase which offer various ways to race: Grand Prix, Endurance, Rally, Pursuit, NASCAR, Arcade and Qualifying.
~Cars must be fitted with a special digital chip to enable them to run on a digital system. These are prefitted to the cars in the set and conversion kit, and a number of other cars which are available separately (look for product codes with a 'D' suffix). You will see our digital cars listed separately on our digital pages for easy identification. Cars fitted with a digital chip will run unmodified on a standard system.
You cannot race Carrera Digital cars or SCX digital cars on the Scalextric Digital Track You can modify almost all analog cars to the Scalextric digital system; (very small cars like mini-coopers are the only ones we know are a problem, but there may be others). The only ready-to-run digital cars you can buy/race are Scalextric Digital Slot Cars.
~Scalextric says that it is possible to convert any car with the digital upgrade chips which are available separately. If you're not happy performing minor work, including gluing and soldering, we would suggest that you keep to cars with the digital chip pre-fitted.
~If you want to race four cars, you will need to get an extra power supply, two hand controllers, two extra cars and possibly some extra track (especially some extra lane change sections). In the majority of cases the most cost effective way of getting these items is to buy a second set, rather than buying them individually. The only problem is that you will end up with cars in the same livery which you will need to differentiate yourself with colored tape or some other way to mark them.
~When buying extra lane change sections, remember each section consists of a half straight and a double length standard curve. This is especially important when designing circuits - don't forget the half straight that leads in to the lane change curve.
~Each power supply provides power for three cars, so if you plan on running four or more cars you will need an extra power supply. The digital powerbase has two power inputs for this purpose.
~Scalextric Sport Digital or Scalextric DPR cars with installed Microprocessor (C7005 or C7006) CAN race on an Analog track. All you need to do is put the car on the Analog track and use an Analog controller and you're good to go!
~Braking is a little different in Sport Digital. Basically, all you need to do is let up on the throttle and the magnet in the car slows it down.
~With digital cars, come crashes! So think about borders and barriers for your track set. This is going to be especially important if your set is on a table.
A Comparison of Scalextric Sport Digital to other slot car brands
| Scalextric | SCX | Carrera | Ninco |
| Digital Track compatible with standard existing track? | YES | NO | YES | YES |
| Conversion of Analog Cars to Digital Cars? | YES | NO | NO | YES |
| Conversion of other manufacturers' cars to Digital? | YES | NO | NO | YES |
| Digital Cars able to race on non-digital track? | YES | NO | YES | NO |
| Digital racing up to 6 cars on same track? | YES | YES | YES | YES |
| Digital Track in same scale (1:32) as Digital Cars? | YES | YES | NO | YES |
Here is a link to our Scalextric Digital Product Pages!
Scalextric Sport Digital FAQs
This FAQ section contains information on how to get the best out of Sport Digital, to resolve problems you may have with Sport Digital, and to answer any questions you have. Join the community of Scalextric enthusiasts by using Scalextric chat forum and find out what other Scalextric enthusiasts are doing with their Sport Digital sets and how they use the Race Modes and many other programmable settings to race.
Q: Can I use old track with Digital?
A: Yes, but you can not use the old power base or transformers. Only use the Digital Power Supplies (C7004) provided.
Q: Basics - How many lanes are used?
A: Only a two lane system is currently available.
Q: Power - How many power supplies are required?
A: One Digital Power Supply (C7004) is suitable for up to three cars. Two power supplies are required for four to six cars. It is perfectly OK to use two power supplies for a single car or any number of cars. It is also OK to use just one power supply for 6 cars but top end performance may suffer on large circuits.
Q: Power - Can I use old power supplies?
A: No. You will damage the Sport Digital unit if you use an old transformer (C996 or prior). Always use the recommended Digital Power Supplies (C7004).
Q: Cars - One controller moves all the cars?
A: A controller, plugged in to socket '1', will control any or all cars that have an ID of 1.
1.) It is OK to drive more than one car with one controller.
2.) If you only want to drive one car with one controller (normal operation) then remove all cars with an ID of 1 from the track except the one you wish to continue racing.
3.) If you wish to race one of the cars with an ID of 1 but using a controller plugged in to socket 2 then you must program the chosen car to have an ID of 2. To do this follow the instructions in the Sport Digital manual. The basic steps are:
a.) remove all cars from the track
b.) replace the chosen car on to the track
c.) use the Sport Digital power base menu system and select 'Car 2', 'Set ID' sub menus and set the ID to '2'. Exit the menus.
d.) Plus a controller in to socket 2 on the Sport Digital power base. Controller 2 will now drive the car with ID 2. Car 1 can be replaced on the track and controller 1 will operate Car 1.
Q: Power Base - How is it possible to keep track of 4 or 6 cars on 2 lanes?
A: The Sport Digital power base LCD display shows the ID, position and other relevant lap timing for the car as it passes the sensor in the power base.
Q: 'OVERLOAD' message. What does this mean? What do I do?
A: The digital system has an automatic power cut function built into it to protect the Digital unit. Because there is constant power to the track there is a high probability of electrical shorts i.e. braid, someone dropping something metallic across the rails, a body screw from the car falling out and into the slot. When this happens, the Digital power base recognizes the short, cuts the power, and displays ‘OVERLOAD’. The power base has to be reset by pressing the lowest of the four button group (the Set button) when 'OVERLOAD' is displayed. If this will not clear the 'OVERLOAD' message then do the following:
1.) Disconnect power and remove the digital power base from the circuit.
2.) Reconnect power.
3.) Does the ‘OVERLOAD’ warning display? If YES, then clean/blow both slots to remove any metal braid debris that may be lodged in the slot. Retest.
3a.) Does the ‘OVERLOAD’ warning display? If YES, then the digital power base is faulty. Return to retailer for replacement. If NO, then Digital power base is functioning properly. Continue with these tests:
4.) Disconnect power and replace the digital power base back to the circuit.
5.) Reconnect power.
6.) Does the ‘OVERLOAD’ warning display? If YES, then an electrical short is present on the layout. Trace the short and retest. If NO, then the Digital power base is functioning properly.
Q: Digital Chip - retro-fit location.
A: When retro-fitting a Digital chip to a Scalextric car, ensure that the chip is positioned as close behind the guide blade as possible. In theory, the chip can also work in front of the guide blade as well as just behind. When fitting the sensor chip behind the guide blade, consider the distance between the car sensor chip and the lane change flipper and the distance between guide blade and flipper. Guide blade to flipper should be the greatest distance possible. The longer the distance the chip is situated behind the guide blade will result in the guide blade being closer to the lane change flipper before the sensor actuates the lane change flipper. This will increase the chance of the car not changing lane when driving at high speed. Therefore, fitting the sensor chip close to the guide blade ensures the correct distance between guide blade and lane change flipper. Additionally, the sensor should also be placed in the chassis so that it is immediately above the track slot. This is normally on the center line of the car chassis.
Q: Digital Chip - magnet location.
A: The magnet doesn't affect the sensor. There are no restrictions on the location of the magnet.
Q: Digital Chip - black & blue guide blades.
A: When converting a car for digital operation, note that BLACK guide blades are recommended. Blue, red, white and many other guide blade colors are invisible to the infrared sensors in the Sport Digital power base. Black, short stem guide blades are available in the Sport Digital range of accessories.
Q: Digital Chips - 'Saloon' or 'F1'?
A: Either Chip can be used on a chassis, space permitting. Their descriptions of 'F1' and 'Saloon' only reflect their general suitability for a chassis; the 'F1' chip being long with an elongated sensor board wire and the 'Saloon' chip being a more compact but larger unit. Check out our USA site for more info at www.scalextric-usa.com
Q: Track - power dips and breaks.
A: When a car stops on circuit this always indicates TWO breaks in electrical continuity since electricity travels in both directions around the track. If there was only one break then you would not notice it as electricity would have flowed from either direction! The way to correct this problem is to disconnect the track behind the power base. Then drive a car forward at a slow speed. When the car crosses from one piece of track to the next there should not be a drop in power/speed. If there is a drop or loss in power, then fix the track connection. Disconnect both track pieces (the track piece immediately before and after the fault). Turn them over and ensure that the metal rail tabs at the ends of the rails (there are 8 of them on every track piece) are fully pressed and clamped down to the plastic. Use a stout screwdriver or similar to push them tight. Reconnect the track pieces and retest by placing the car back at the power base and again drive the car slowly forward until you meet the next reduced or lost power section. Continue the above repair process until you get to the last track piece and then reconnect the last track piece to the power base.
Q: Aux Input - What is it for?
A: This is used for Digital accessories.
Q: Can I use RMS with Digital?
A: RMS is not compatible with Sport Digital for the casual Scalextric user. Technically, you can still use RMS. There's no reason why you can't use RMS as a secondary Race Control tool. You must still use the RMS half-straight if using RMS AND there are some limits and considerations: For instance, Arcade mode can be used by one driver with one car. The eventual result is displayed and then the next attempt is made to beat that result by the next or same driver. Digital and RMS can be used to clock the laps for the car BUT, for RMS to be correct, you must drive through the same RMS slot sensor on every lap. When using more than one car in a race, RMS will not know which car goes through its lane sensors if cars are changing lanes. So, if you want RMS to count each car correctly you must drive the car with ID 1 through Lane 1 to register a lap for car 1. Otherwise the car with ID 1 going through RMS lane 3 would clock up a lap for car 3 on RMS. Not what you might want - but it could be a basis for an exciting game in and of itself!